2015 Grenache - santa clara valley "Besson Vineyard"
2015 Grenache - santa clara valley "Besson Vineyard"
When I heard that there was Old Vine Grenache fruit available at the Besson Vineyard, I got right on the phone and secured it sight unseen. Who would pass at the opportunity to make wine from these historic 105 year old vines? Not us. Well that was a fine decision as these wines have become some of our favorites. These organically farmed, non-irrigated vines were planted on their own roots in 1910. The vineyard sits at the base of the Santa Cruz Mountains in the "Hecker Pass", a narrow gateway that runs from Santa Cruz to Gilroy. The pass funnels a coastal influence into Besson that tempers the climate and promotes a long slow ripening. The vineyard itself is gently sloping North with granite based sand/gravel loam that is littered with larger stones as well. Really a prime site where all the factors have come together. Couple that with these wise old vines, and there are the reasons this wine is just so great.
There are two distinct styles of quality California Grenache that I would like to talk about for a moment. The first usually sees 8-12 months in a neutral wood and is then tanked up and bottled by 18 months. The Second, and our method with this wine, is a full 26 months in 3 year old French barrels. Minimal racking and bottled with no filtration or fining. This style of grenache possesses more concentration of fruit and earth, a more viscous texture, and a chewier yet integrated tannin structure. To me Besson Vineyard screams for this method. The wine from these old vines can then convey their message more clearly to us with the amplification of aromas and flavors it provides, perhaps even reveling nuances that would have been indiscernible otherwise.
The wine really evolves as you drink. Layered aromatics of strawberry twizzlers and candied cherry mingle with rosemary, thyme, anise, lemon zest and graphite, with floral notes of lavender and violet. Gripping but plush tannins frame flavors that mirror the aromas and combine with darker fruit with great minerality and a sappy overtone that adds just the right complexity. It coats your mouth and really sticks around. To us a real juxtaposition. Its bright and dark. Fruity and savory. Sweet and tart. Yin and yang. Young and vibrant but somehow already mature and sophisticated. The structure it possesses lead me to believe this wine will continue to evolve for 10+ years. A wine to drink now, and to keep tabs on regularly. Grenache is such an enigma; I love it. This one really has me.
Pre-harvest late night drawing and selfie at besson.
